In addition to their intrinsic beauty, the exceptional pieces in high jewelry collections tell stories, transporting you to distant horizons. Enhanced by rare jewels from exotic lands, they are also distinguished by their unique design. This year, the travel theme inspires creations that invite you to dare for adventure or to dream of wonders. Like an opening to another enchanting place.
Journey to the heart of fine jewelry –Van Cleef & Arpels
In his poem L’Invitation au voyage, Charles Baudelaire approached travel as a promise. It is also to the imagination that the beautiful jewelry stores appeal, which chose to evoke exotic landscapes and dream destinations in their 2023 creations. With “Le Grand Tour”, Van Cleef & Arpels reinterprets this initiatory journey that marked the European artistic and cultural panorama between the 18th and 19th centuries. “This fine jewelry collection celebrates a tradition that has always fascinated us. At the beginning of the 20th century, when Van Cleef & Arpels was founded, curiosity for other cultures, eras and art forms allowed us to fuel our imagination and give rise to innovative creations.
Even before that, traveling abroad to discover the remains of ancient civilizations offered an open mind to European intellectuals and artists. This has had a decisive impact on our uses today. We always travel to broaden our horizons, in search of experiences and encounters”, explains Nicolas Bos, president of Van Cleef & Arpels.
Born in England in the 16th century, the Grand Tour received its name in reference to a circular journey returning to the starting point. Young aristocrats make this journey across the continent to complete an excessively bookish education, build their character, broaden their culture and ensure their entry into society.
Today, it is this cultural heritage that Van Cleef & Arpels illustrates with the high jewelry collection “The Grand Tour Telled by Van Cleef & Arpels”. Sculptural necklaces and rotating earrings evoking Renaissance jewelry; bandana bracelets faithfully reproducing views of monuments, like ancient micro mosaics; clips made up of cameos and ancient carvings… Creations as if to demonstrate that traveling is in fact a creative work in itself.
Exceptional knowledge – Anna Hu
The House’s designers and artisans thus brought to life pieces imagined as travel sketches, inviting escape and marvelous contemplation. Throughout the collection, necklaces and bracelets create contrasting landscapes. Nicolas Bos says: “We draw inspiration from ancient, Etruscan, medieval or Renaissance jewelry, combining them with our own heritage, our style and our know-how. The result evokes a colorful travel diary, inviting you to dream about destinations and precious stones.”
Each creation is thought of as a painting full of patiently executed details, like the Escale Antique bracelet. Arranged in such a way as to completely hide the metallic structure that supports them, the stones – emeralds, tsavorite garnets, diamonds – are selected for the uniformity of colors and sizes, in order to compose jewelry panoramas with harmonious nuances. The back of the Escale Antique bracelet is also the site of virtuoso techniques. The structures, carefully perforated, let light pass through to make the stones shine brightly.
The golden sconces recall the scenes that unfold in the place, continuing the story told by creation.
Italy is also present in the inspiration of the latest pieces presented in Paris by the designer Anna Hu. In recent years, Anna was fascinated by one of her visits to the Uffizi Gallery in Florence. She was immediately drawn to Botticelli’s “The Birth of Venus.” Venus, goddess of love and beauty, is depicted emerging from a shell. She looks as pure and perfect as a pearl. Anna Hu interpreted this iconic work in jewelry. For the first time, in collaboration with jeweler Jothi Seroj, she used natural shells as a base for gemstone inlays. She illustrated the underwater world with diamonds like seaweed and bubble-shaped pearls.
Cartier named its latest high jewelry collection “The Journey Begins Again.” Jacqueline Karachi, creative director of high jewelry Cartier, describes the process that led to the development of these unique pieces: “I work on the line, volumes, color palette, inspiration from nature and world cultures… So much of the territories we explore, to go beyond the limits of creation to discover new horizons. Like a journey restarted again and again, this collection takes us to the inexhaustible sources of Cartier inspiration.” India is the first stop on this journey, with a necklace whose reversible structure, play of colors and patterns pay homage to traditional Mughal jewelry. On one side, the light that bursts from the fire of diamonds, white gold and carved rock crystal. On the other, touches of red, green and blue lacquer – an emblematic Cartier agreement. In the center, three oval brilliant cut diamonds, visible on the front and back. Each headstock is set in a cut translucent rock crystal pattern, which harmonizes the volumes on the back and leaves the diamonds visible on both sides. This highly precise lapidary work is repeated in the rock crystal drops arranged on the edge of the necklace and whose design recalls the boteh motif, inseparable from the Indian repertoire. The back of each diamond-paved element is lacquered in red, green or blue. Everything is delicately deposited on the skin, whatever the chosen aesthetic. Six professionals from jewelry workshops collaborated on the creation of this necklace for over a year.
BUCCELLATI. ARTICULATED CUFF BRACELET
Inspired by the colors and shapes of mosaic glass paste tesserae from the Byzantine era, the “Mosaico” collection by Buccellati consists of bracelets, necklaces, cocktail rings and dangling earrings. The inspiration of Byzantine mosaics takes shape through the infinity of diamonds and the colors of precious stones that capture and reflect light.
OF BEERS. SUMMER RING, COLLECTION
While Of Beers, with “Metamorfose”, portrays the four seasons in jewelry. The verse “Spring” recites an ode to an ancient flower that grows in South Africa; “Winter” illustrates fragments of ice on the surface of frozen lakes; swirls of falling leaves are depicted throughout “Autumn”; Finally, the “Summer” set is inspired by the spiral shapes of ammonite fossils. These voluminous sculptural creations are crafted from yellow gold and reveal swirls of sparkling diamonds when viewed from the side, like fossils discovered in the sand. The mesmerizing brilliance of rough and polished yellow diamonds combines with white diamonds to recall the form of these historic artifacts.
CHAUMET. AGAPANTHUS RING IN WHITE GOLD
“Le Jardin de Chaumet”Includes a chapter called “Bouquets of the World”, in which agapanthus, magnolia and chrysanthemum are discussed. A contemporary witness to the opening to the other side that distinguishes the Chaumet house, this chapter enriches the tour with a gentle reverie. Two rings deliver a contemporary reinterpretation of you and me, offering triple use, one by one or together. The first is set with a 3.34-carat oval-cut diamond, the second with a 6.01-carat oval-cut sapphire, representing the umbel-shaped inflorescences of the agapanthus, its stem stylized in gold commas, set with diamonds and sapphires. A third ring, which generously covers the size of the finger, is adorned with a 9.35-carat emerald-cut sapphire.
TASAKI. CASCADE NECKLACE: WHITE GOLD, AKOYA PEARLS, DIAMONDS, PARAÍBA TOURMALINES.
The theme of the sixth collection of Tasaki Workshop is “Nature Spectacle”. Celebrates a natural spectacle created by the dazzling meeting of the sun and moon, reflecting their majestic beauty in the waters of the sea. The “Cascade” line reveals sparkling drops of water, radiating light. It is inspired by a mesmerizing oasis, vibrant emerald green, located in the heart of a dense tropical forest. The elegant shapes of Paraíba tourmalines and multiple rows of pearls represent the fluidity of water as it falls gracefully through lush vegetation, evoking the breath of forests. The natural, dynamic beauty of moving water is highlighted and expressed in the design of a matching necklace and earrings, providing captivating depth to this collection’s creations.
GRAPH. THREAD BRACELET
As for Graff,“Threads” makes up a striking collection of contemporary jewelry that conveys the hyperconnectivity of our modern world in graphic diamond compositions. Incorporating the social threads that permeate our lives and the fleeting moments that can forever change the course of destiny, the collection traces the journey of each individual, capturing the precious moments and memories we share with those closest to us. Abstract compositions of custom-cut, emerald-cut and pavé diamonds form an interlocking thread of sparkle around the wrist. With “Threads”, the journey takes you to another space-time to return to a form of timelessness and universality of creation.